TAG Heuer watches have always had an understated and desirable cool about them. Stepping into the future, the Connected fuses horology with technology for a touchscreen smart watch. The company also developed dive watches, with the Aquaracer, Professional and Aquagraph being prime examples. A notable development in this field was the Bundeswehr, a flyback chronograph. The aviation industry also relied heavily on the brand’s watches: the German air force commissioned many timepieces for their pilots throughout the world wars and well into the 1960s. John Glenn, the astronaut piloting the Mercury Atlas 6 spacecraft, used his Heuer stopwatch to time the first manned orbit around Earth, making it the first Swiss watch in space. Motorsport wasn’t the only industry that displayed an interest in the brand’s watches. TAG (Techniques d'Avant Garde) manufactured technology used in Formula 1, such as the ceramic turbochargers that gave the cars their fearsome reputation, and this union gave rise to watches such as the Kirium, F1 and Link. The Formula 1 link was cemented with the amalgamation of TAG and Heuer as TAG Heuer. Watches such as the Autavia, Carrera, Monaco, Silverstone and Monza followed. The connection that the company had with motorsport eventually spread to the pinnacle of racing, Formula 1. The brand’s dashboard chronograph evolved through the 1980s into several variations: the Super Autavia, a name derived from the two main users of the instrument, the auto and aviation industries the Master Time, which contained a movement that could run for eight days without winding the Monte-Carlo, a 12-hour stopwatch the Sebring, a 60-minute split-second timer and the Auto-Rallye, a 60-minute stopwatch. A timing split function was added soon after, which allowed intervals between competitors to be recorded. Adapted from a pocket watch, the crown was mounted at the 12 o’clock position, and accuracy was improved to 1/100th of a second. This developed into the first wrist-worn chronograph, released in 1914. A top-mounted crown started, stopped and reset the smaller hands. The main, centrally-mounted hands of the instrument displayed the time, and an additional pair of smaller hands counted elapsed time. After Edouard’s death in 1892, the brand continued to develop timing products, the ‘Time of Trip’ dashboard mounted stopwatch receiving its patent in 1911. This interest in chronographs founded the company’s penchant for timing equipment. Not twenty years later, he had also patented the oscillating pinion: a compact component that allowed precise engagement of the chronograph function. Such was his enthusiasm for his work, that with just nine years under his belt making watches, he had already patented one of the first crown winding mechanisms. The brand originally started off as just Heuer, under the leadership of Edouard Heuer a watchmaker with a passion for innovation, he started making watches at the tender age of 20. Something to fill the desirability gap for that unattainable Daytona? Or a uniquely cool watch on its own terms? It’s both.TAG Heuer is a company with its roots firmly planted in motorsport. The overlapping sundials, pump-style side pushers and 41mm case remain. The “quintessential Zenith sporty-chic chronograph” now comes in new models with new case materials: 18kt rose gold with a rose gold bracelet and two-tone 18k rose gold with a stainless steel bracelet. It means it can record elapsed time down to not just the second, but to 1/10th of a second, a breakthrough in watchmaking. Plus, Zenith equipped its new Chronomaster with its proprietary “El Primero” movement, a mechanism with an uncommonly high frequency – way faster than Rolex’s. Rolex’s icon with the ceramic bezel and panda dial is one of the best-looking designs ever made. The similarities to Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona were much-remarked upon when it came out last year, but if you’re going to be compared to one watch, it may as well be that.
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